Old-vine Barbaresco Riserva with firm tannins and flavours of chocolate and black truffle

Paolo Demarie’s Barbaresco Riserva comes from an old-vine vineyard, planted in the 1960s. It sits 1 km east of Neive, across the Tinella stream on the Canova hills. The vineyard looks south-east, facing the morning sun.

The soil is Tortonian, composed of limestone-rich, sandy Sant’Agata Fossili Marls. Soils on this side of Neive are known to produce age-worthy Barbaresco wines with powerful tannins. Thanks to the higher content of sand, the wines are more fruity and perfumed.

Winemaking

For his Riserva wine, Paolo uses the traditional technique. This is based on long fermentation and maceration, which maximises the extraction of tannin and flavour.

First, the wine is fermented at 23-24°C for 25 days, and then macerates on the skins for a further 25 days. The newly made wine has so much tannin that it needs to spend a long time in oak to mellow. This Barbaresco Riserva is aged for two years in 10-year-old Slavonian barrels, which helps to preserve – rather than dominate – Nebbiolo’s precious aromas.

Ultimately, the wine spends fifteen years in the cellar, maturing at the perfect temperature in bottle.

Tasting notes

This old-vine Barbaresco Riserva has a translucent tawny shade. It has firm tannins and tastes of chocolate brownie, truffle and gently spiced poached plum, complemented by hints of cinnamon and pepper.

Awards

Decanter World Wine Awards 2022 – Silver Medal (2008 vintage) | James Suckling – 90 points (2008 vintage) | Wine Enthusiast – 90 points (2006 vintage) | Falstaff Magazin – 93 points (2007 vintage) | Jancis Robinson – 17.5/20 points (2007 vintage)